The big weekend started when we went with my Mom on Thursday, and
By Saturday morning things were starting to reach a fever pitch, and we
worried that
After that, it was party time, and the reception was awesome.
There was great food, and an open bar, and talented DJ, and everyone,
including the 80+ year old grandmothers, was out on the dance floor, shakin' it
up. Everyone had a wonderful time, and the only thing wrong was it didn't
last long enough. That's the best thing you can say about a party, and we
have always had as our goal for a party that everyone says when they leave, "That was
the best party we went to all year." I am sure it was true this
time!
As the genial host, it was my job to welcome everyone, and I took the
opportunity to toast the happy couple. For the benefit of my sister, who
somehow missed it ("
As
we have been preparing for this great day, it has been a time of reflection and
remembering. And one thing we of course remember is when Lena came home
from her sailing trip to the
And I thought, “This is good.”
And since then, we have come to know Steve, and she was right, of
course: he is fun, and funny, and smart, and he has skills. And we
are just thrilled that he is now joining our family.
And more recently, we have had a chance to get to know his family:
his charming and well travelled parents, and his lovely, and generous, and
gracious sisters. And we are delighted to be able to join their family,
too.
As we enjoy this wonderful day together, I am reminded of the saying
that, “Parents find joy when their children find love.” So let’s raise a
toast to
So, it was all a smashing success, and a great time
was had by one and all as we joined
September 27, 2009
A busy month has gone by since the last post. Lena and her Travel Buddy, Claire, came for a too brief visit. They spent a few days with us, then took off on their own for a few, then we met up for a trip to Switzerland. It is great when visitors come and shake us out of our groove!
Claire was Lena's room mate at App, and they had travelled in Europe together before. They met up and flew to Frankfurt, then took the train to Cologne, where we met them. They said the train ride was wild, as it was full of soccer fans coming for a big match. The train was full of bottles, and met by squads of police. We had a nice drink in a small square and lunch in a garden cafe, then climbed to the top of the cathedral. If there is a tower, we will climb it! It was a beautiful day, and the views over the city were excellent. We took off the next day to the Ducasse, a parade of giant puppets in Ath, south of Brussels, that has been going on for about 500 years. The parade had a nice feel to it, and in addition to the bands and old (and old time) soldiers, had great floats on wagons, drawn by beautiful, sturdy Belgian draft horses. Everyone was in good spirits, and it was fun being with two such cute girls, as everyone turned an eye and wanted to chat them up. We went on to Tournai, one of the great old cities of Belgium. Despite having suffered a lot in the various wars, it has an outstanding cathedral and a famous bell tower. We sat in the square and watched the passers-by, had dinner in a nice little place run by a hard working young couple, and made the long drive home.
The girls went into Brussels for some siteseeing and shopping. The day got off to a poor start in Leuven when they made the mistake of addressing the man at the train ticket counter in tourist French. Now, here are two sweet girls, obviously not Belgian, just being nice, and he said "Do not speak French to me. That is an insult here." Wow. Leuven is where, in the late '60s, the Dutch speaking faculty declared that the Catholic University, one of the earliest established in Europe, was henceforth a Flemish institution, and threw out the French faculty. They went a few kilometers over the border to Wallonia, and chartered the first new Belgian city in 500 years, called Louvain-la-Neuve, or New Leuven, and set up their own Catholic University of Louvain. I am told the library was divided by taking alternate books, so one has volumes A, C, and E, and in the other University, volumes B, D, and F. For the girls, the rest of the day got better, and they returned tired but loaded with booty.
The next day, we delivered them to the train station, with tickets to go down into Alsace, in France. They boarded fine, but the train was delayed in leaving, and they arrived in Namur late, with just seconds to jump onto the train to.....Brussels! Oh, no, totally the wrong way. This meant they ended up taking the whole day to get to Strasburg, and they missed out on a planned castle, but it was raining anyway, so it was good day to be indoors on a train. A few days later, Steph and I drove down to Colmar to meet them. The first thing you see driving into town is a 40 foot Statue of Liberty, since this was the home of its sculptor, Bertholdi. The houses in town are all timber frame with the (usually white) parts in between painted various shades of pastel. A nice and very pretty city, bursting with flowers. From there we went down to Switzerland, and spent a few days in Interlaken. We took cable cars, and walked all day on trails high above, and then down in, a perfect U-shaped glacial valley. We went to Trummelbach Falls, where a gushing river of icy glacial melt water works its way, in a series of falls, through a cave in the mountain. You climb up past thundering water and spray, going inside and out of the mountain. Very dramatic! There were perfect snow capped mountains all around, and the whole effect was as cute and Heidi-licious as could be. The next day we walked through the woods above the lakes, and while the weather was cloudier, it made for dramatic views. We toured around Thun, and its castle, and after a refreshing lunch by the icy river, we made our way to our hotel near Frankfurt.. The girls are hardy and hearty travellers, and were a joy to have with us. Thanks for the memories!
August 18, 2009
We visited last weekend with our friends Diederik and Karin Engbersen in the Dutch city of Breda. They lived in Durham for a few years, then in France for a while, before settling back in the Netherlands for their boys' teen years. We biked around town, had a great dinner and a lovely visit. While sitting at a sidewalk cafe, we saw an entirely new sort of biker bar, that you can see here. A short drive away was an interesting little place at the end of a narrow, winding lane, on top of a dyke - a combination art gallery and farm preserve, filled with outdoor statuary of all sorts and old, heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables. It was run by a garrulous eccentric with a great mop of white curls. We wandered about, and had a glass of juice and chatted for a bit, enjoying a different sort of place. Afterwards, we went to Leerdam, which is a small town famous for its glassmakers. We poked our heads into a bunch of little shops, and saw some totally amazing pieces. They were beautiful, but expensive, and to be honest, I would be afraid to have something so precious and fragile about the house. Here are some pictures from the weekend.
On the way home, we stopped in the towns of Baarle-Hertog and Baarle-Nassau. This is a funny relic, a bit of history echoing down to the present day. Baarle-Hertog is a Belgian town, but it is about 5 km inside of the Netherlands, and completely surrounded by its neighbor, the Dutch town of Baarle-Nassau. Within its boundries are also isolated bits of Baarle-Nassau, making for islands inside of islands, and even I think an island inside of that. There are a few other places along this bit of the border, with a few similar islands of Holland inside of Belgium. Today this is a curiosity, but it used to be more of a bother. Before the Euro, you would always need to have some Belgian and Dutch currency in your pocket, and there were differences about whether stores were open on the weekend, and the closing times of restaurants and bars. This meant that at a certain time of night, everyone would get up and go across the street to keep drinking. Because many homes and businesses straddled the border, it was decided that the front door would determine whether a building was in Holland or Belgium. This would often change along with the tax laws, as people decided it was better to have their property in one country or another.
All this relates back to the Middle Ages when part of the land was given by one nobleman to another and then loaned back again, in a classic lease back deal. But the lease didn't include all the land, and some bits were kept aside. Ever since then it was a patchwork of claims that somehow never was consoidated. When it came time to create a border between Belgium and Holland it was drawn based on these ancient claims, with historic lands of the Duke of Brabant going to Belgium and those of the Count of Breda and Nassau going to the Netherlands. The land holdings of the nobles were particularly intermingled in this area, and it was impossible to draw a clean border between them. So, more than 5000 parcels of land were examined and put into countries individually, resulting in the puzzle pieces still seen today. There have been various attempts through the years to sort it out more sensibly, but these have always failed, and now everyone is so used to the idea that it will stay the way it is. They have sorted out services, with one country handling the mail, another the post, one the water system, etc. An interesting side effect of all this is that, because the area has always been under multiple jurisdictions, it has been hard to organize big projects. As a result, it contains some of the least disturbed ecosystems in the country, and a great and unusual diversity of wildlife. Though more united now than ever, Baarle is still an interesting town.
August 12, 2009
People here don't do Halloween, but they still enjoy getting into costume. While Buff was visiting there was a medieval fair in the nearby town of Comblain, and off we went. Sure enough, in a meadow above the town, under some rocky cliffs, a little tent village appeared, and lots of folks took the opportunity to get in touch with their roots. There were a variety of vendors and tradespeople, and assorted odd-balls, more or less in character. One funny, round jester always drew a crowd as he waved his very anachronistic toilet plunger, and another was constantly berating the passersby for not addressing him with the proper titles and respect he was due as the local Seigneur. There was a battery of archers who loosed flight after flight of arrows into a nearby field. They did not show the 250 yard range of the English as Agincourt ("We few, we happy few, we band of brothers") but they did rain down some destruction on the grass. The highlight of the day was the tournament of mounted knights. These people took it to the max, and were in full knightly regalia, including the horses. They thundered about with their lances and slicing off heads to the delight of the crowd. It all looked like great fun, and I guess the Middle Ages weren't so bad, as long as you overlook the cold, filth, hunger and disease! You can see some pictures here.
August 3,
2009
Such a long time without an update!
We’ve been busy with visitors and the usual at work, but
have been
trying hard to catch up. So,
here’s a few highlights.
Just after our last post, we went up into
Buff
Gibson came to see us for a few weeks, and part of that time
overlapped with a visit with Patz.
All
this stuff will be a bit jumbled, and we’ve grouped some pictures
together. The first
big expedition was a
trip to northern
What a dream vacation I've just enjoyed. My two closest friends over here and the open road ahead. I couldn't resist the call and we three, Buff Gibson and Patz Laniak and I, left on Sunday evening and drove to Lubeck in northern Germany. Lubeck is a lovely old town, once queen of the Hanseatic League and now recognized by UNESCO as a cultural treasure. Today it is a bustling German metropolis. We had a lovely evening stroll about the old town and enjoyed our dinner on the quay by the river. Ah, what a lovely night as you'll see. After doing some shopping and sight-seeing the next morning, we hit the road north into Denmark adn up the peninsula to the northern port of Aarhus. The following morning we visited the second of our UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These are places that have contributed in an important way to the cultural history of the world.
Jelling is the site of a stone ship
grave site with two large mounds placed within the stone outline of a
ship. Sprinkled between the mounds are great carved stones which are
eloquent in their praises to King Gorm and his wife Thyra, parents of
Harald
Bluetooth,direct ancestors of Denmark's current monarch. The
mounds and stones date from mid-900's but the stone
ship burial ground is far older.
We headed east and south toward
Copenhagen stopping at the third of the sites: the cathedral
at
Roskilde. This striking red church houses the tombs
of most of the kings and queens of Denmark
beginning with said Harald of the blue tooth, many in ornate
crypts
glommed on the the ancient Gothic brick edifice. It sits on a small
rise looking out over the fingers of water from which the
Vikings began their voyages to far horizons. We wished we'd
had more time there, it was a
lovely and interesting church.
We drove on to Copenhagen where we
spent a couple of days. Copenhagen is a small city which is
easy to walk around in or bike, with most of
the sights within walking distance, a perfect place for a
cruise
excursion which it is for thousands of people.The photos show it best
so I'll let them speak. We turned south and left
Denmark the Viking way, by
ship. I have great admiration for those brave explorers who
fanned out
across the globe in little wooden boats. On our way home we
got caught
in the gravitational pull of Amsterdam and so we met up with Jim at the
end of his work week and the end of our 4 day Daneland
adventure. I had a great time, relaxing, fun and
invigorating. I
certainly hope my friends enjoyed themselves as much as I did.
Thanks
Ladies!
So, we all met up and enjoyed a day in
The girls also walked around Maastricht in southern Netherlands one
afternoon
while waiting for me to get in on the train. It is a lovely
city, with an odd red-stone church tower. We also took the
opportunity while Buff was here to go to
Mixed into all this were some hikes in the countryside, a big medieval fair with mounted knights and outings to great chateaux. More on that later. All in all, a fun visit that flew right by. Thanks for coming to see us Buff!
May 31, 2009
It's been a busy month, and so
we are way behind on the
updates, but I know May has been sweeps month on TV, so the millions
dependent
on this site for entertainment have had an alternative.
Where to
begin? We were in the States for a few weeks in May, and
spent most of
our time trying to jam 6 months' worth of lawn and garden upkeep, home
repairs
and auto maintenance into just a few weekends. A lot to do,
but nothing
was in terrible shape; just the inevitable input of energy necessary to
keep
entropy at bay. It was nice to enjoy the flowers that were in
bloom, and
spring is always a lovely time to be in NC. My Mom made her
semi-annual
visit, on her way to Colorado. It's always a pleasure, and
this time
things didn't get heated as we had nothing to complain about regarding
the
president, as we have for some years. We had a few
opportunities to play
bridge and catch up with the crowd, and special thanks to all those who
put on
some sort of affair while we were there. And of course, we
always love
seeing the little angels. John was through with school for
the year, and
Lena came up two weekends, so we had a good dose of familial bliss
while we
were there.
I went into work while in Durham, and
got to enjoy the cool
vibe of OncoMethylome West. While there I got this
link from
my pal Joe Bigley. At last, all is revealed about Joe
Cocker's famous
rendition of "A little help from my friends." Remember:
"Hoggify!" That says it all. It reminded
us that we
had seen the touring show of "Lemmings" many years ago. This
was a National Lampoon satire of the music business, and featured Chevy
Chase
and others before they were famous, including
John Belushi
doing his take on Joe Cocker. Ah, the good old days.
Finally, or rather firstly, we took a
trip to
From there we went to Domremy-la-Pucelle, birthplace of Joan of Arc.
It
was a rather unremarkable village, except for the many large and
dramatic
statues of the Maid of Orleans. Hers is a sad story, as she
did all she
could for her country and its king, and in the end was captured by the
Burgundians and turned over to the English, who then burned her.
The
point all this brought home was that while we think of Burgandy today
as part
of France, at the time it was a completely independent and adversarial
state,
and aligned with the English, who were trying to assert their
dominion
over the whole place. It all makes you
appreciate the brevity and
simplicity of our history. I am reminded of the joke when I
told someone
my kid was studying American History in school: he asked what they did
after
the first few weeks.
We stayed in a nice little hotel in
Dijon, capital of
Burgundy, former seat of the powerful Dukes of Burgandy, and of course,
center
of the mustard universe. Dijon had lots of old timber frame
buildings,
and a huge palace, with a tower we just had to climb. Also,
lots of the
roofs had shiney glazed colored tiles, all in geometric patterns.
We had
a lovely dinner in a restaurant named "La Chouette," which is the
name of a little owl who is the mascot of Dijon. She is
carved into a
corner of the wall of the church, and if you fit your hand in just so,
your
wish will come true. Sadly, she was smashed by vandals a few
years ago,
but has since been repaired. In the countryside, you drive
through
endless vineyards, and each little vine has been meticulously pruned
and left
with a single shoot tied to a wire. A huge amount of hand
labor, expended
in the exercise of the vintner's art. Unfortunately, the
glory of the
product is largely lost on me, as I have, let's just say, an untrained
palate.
But, of course, we did enjoy a drop or two with our meals.
We made an excursion to the site of
Vercingetorix's last
stand. He was a great leader of the Gauls, and raised an army
to fight
the Romans, led by Julius Caesar. This was all the more
remarkable since
his father had been killed by the Gauls themselves because they thought
he was
getting too powerful. Since Caesar's history of the wars in
Gaul
includes "I came, I saw, I conquered," you can guess how it
turned out. After a back and forth campaign that could have
gone either
way, Vercingetorix retreated with 80,000 men to a walled town and the
nearby
hills. Caesar surrounded him with 40,000 men,
built miles of
fortifications to hold them in, and laid seige. Meanwhile, an
even bigger
army of Gauls came to lift the siege, so the Romans built a
second set of
fortifications to keep them out. They were able to keep both
sides of
this double ring intact, and eventually the Gauls were starved into
submission.
It was a great example of the strength of the Romans through
superior
engineering, organization and discipline. Vercingetorix rode out of
camp to
surrender, and was taken off to be paraded about in Rome, and
eventually
killed. Bad for him, but he now joins Joan of Arc as a great
hero and
founder of the nation of France, and there is a colossal statue erected
in his
honor here.
Our one disappointment came when we went
to the hilltop town
of Vézelay. It is renowned for having a ancient and
impressive basilica,
which was a principle stopping point for pilgrims going to Santiago
de Compostela. To get there, you have to climb up
steep streets to
the top of the hill, and we were joined by women in their high heels,
families
pushing strollers, little old ladies - a regular motley crew of
pilgrims.
But when we got to the top, the basilica was closed, for a
concert!
So, we were turned away, on Easter.
Honestly! We poked around
in several more towns, and took in lots of beautiful, rolling
farmland.
Finally, since it was Easter, we went looking for a lamb
dinner.
But this quest was also in vain, and it was getting late and
we had a
long way to drive, so we settled on a kabab from a little shop.
In the
end, it was good, and it was lamb.
May 3, 2009
Stephen Gibson had some business in
Friday was very pretty, and we took a
drive to Annevoie, a
chateau that had been in the same family for
10 generations. Since the 17th C they have been working on
the gardens
there, and they are beautiful. There are fountains all over,
and since
they are fed by natural springs, they run all the time, and have for
centuries.
Besides the flower gardens, there were some great ancient
trees to
admire, too. We were surprised to see the parking lot full of
great old
cars, and realized there was a road rally that day. A little
later, we
stopped for lunch at a curve in the road, and enjoyed the show as we
ate.
We also headed off to another chateau, at Spontin, but
despite the
indications in the tourist guides, it was closed up tight.
Steve and I have an interest in geology,
and Steph likes to
hike through the woods, so we followed a marked Geology Walk in nearby
Comblain-au-Pont. One thing this area has in spades is
geology. The
low countries are formed from the delta of the Rhine, and there were
successive
layers of sand (if it was at the mouth of the river), clay (if it was
further
out from the mouth) or plankton bodies (if it was sea floor) deposited,
which
eventually became sandstone, slate or limestone.
These layers were
then all folded up, and exposed by the rivers as the land uplifted.
Or it
was all laid down during the Great Flood, your choice. In
either event,
there are cliffs showing the twisted layers, and you can find lots of
fossils
and various sorts of rock, and there are quarries everywhere.
All this
was well explained with "didactic panels" along the walk, and there
were even some odd features like a deposit of sand that never formed
into rock.
Interspersed were random bits of art, carved from the local
stone, and
using iron as seen in the quarries. We ended up on the
rolling plateau
above, strolling though the bucolic farmland. We
paid a visit to our
favorite local site in Anthines, and had some refreshment in
the cellers
and a look about the towers. We finished off the day with a
stroll (OK,
climb) up to the hilltop of Esneux, before a typical Belgian dinner of
mussels
and frites.
On Sunday, we went to a medieval fair in Grez-Doiceau.
We have
seen others that were more active, and the grey weather didn't help,
but it was
a nice enough little town. The highlight was a shot of
"bee
pee," a honey flavoured liqueur, served up by a cute young lad in full
bee
regalia. Later we continued our geology theme with a visit to
the coal
mine museum in Blegny, just north of Liege. Coal mining was a
huge industry
in the area, and although all the mines have since closed, you can see
the
hills formed by the discarded rock all around. The museum is
on the site
of the last big mine to close, and it still has all its machinery in
place,
left like everyone just walked away one day. Our tour guide
was a
"Mario," one of thousands of Italians who came to work in the mine in
the '50's. The only problem was that he spoke heavily
accented French,
mixed with local dialect, and we could hardly understand him as he
constantly
teased Steph with jokes we didn't get. Even though the work
was
incredibly difficult and dangerous, men cried when the mines closed.
Finally, we stopped in Liege and took a
turn around the city
center. After a final burst of tourism, we settled in at the
"House
of Peket" for a taste of the traditional drink of the city, a cool
fruit
flavored gin, at a sidewalk cafe. Could be worse!
May 2, 2009
Last spring we went to see the tulips in Holland, and this year we
have enjoyed a beautiful
variety of flowers of all sorts in
While the gardens were beautiful, a
really nice surprise
this spring has been the vast drifts of white flowering trees on the
hills
around our house, and also the rolling fields of flowering fruit trees
just to
the north. Those in the forest seem more natural, but of
course, nearly
every tree we see was planted by someone.
For a few weeks each spring, the King of
the Belgians
(that's right; he is not the King of Belgium, but of the Belgians)
opens the
gates of the palace at Laken in Brussels and lets the hoi polloi wander
in to
see the greenhouses and a bit of the grounds. The Palace is
not
particularly noteworthy, but the greenhouses are. They were
built in the
1890's by Leopold II, designed by a pioneer of Art Nouveau, and his
young
assistant, Victor Horta, who went on the be a great name in design and
architecture. They consist of several huge domes, connected
by great long
tunnels of glass. The domes are filled with enormous palms
and ferns, and
all sorts of exotic tropical plants. This was all started
when the King ruled
the Congo, and people wanted to show off the mysteries of the "dark
continent." The scale of these old specimens, especially the
ferns,
was impressive. Apparently the King was a great fan of
fuschia, and there
were scores of varieties, each more brilliant than the last.
The whole
thing was a riot of color, in high contrast to the greyness of Brussels
on a
typical day. As usual, you can see some pictures here.
April 24, 2009
Our friend Steve has come to visit for a
few days.
Today the weather was beautiful, and we went to visit the
gardens of the
Chateau Annevoie. More on that later.
While we were walking
around Esneux I was reminded that I had not posted some pictures I have
of the
village. I found some old postcards of the area, and then
found a lot
more old photos on the internet. It is fun to look at the
scenes and
figure out what is still there and what has changed. I have
put together
a few pairs to compare. You can
see a few of the changes to
Esneux since its hey-day at the turn of the 20th century.
April 18, 2009
Our kids are often amazed at the
incredibly fun and exciting
things we do here in Belgium. For example, sometimes we go
out and look
for......piles of dirt. No, really.
The southern part of
Belgium was part of the Roman Empire, and that boundary between the
Latin and
Germanic world is still reflected in the Walloon/Flanders division of
the
country. Anyway, if you were a big shot Roman your tomb could
be a big
pile of dirt along the road. And I mean big: some
of these are 30
feet high and 50 feet across. I am not sure if that made up
for the fact
that these poor bastards were posted to the grey, rainy north while
dreaming of
sunny Italy. It is amazing that they are still here, in the
middle of
some field, or behind a store, and they have not been eroded
away by the
rain, or plowed under by successive generations of farmers.
We first saw
one along the road to Brussels, and looked into it further.
They can be found all over the flat
country at the edge of
the Ardennes, and also around eastern France, and were made between
about 100 BC
and 300 AD. Some have been excavated, and you can find relics
in the
local museums. Before the Romans, around 3000-3500 BC, the
local tribes
also made burial mounds for their leaders. These were walls
of big
stones, typically capped with a massive stone slab, and originally
covered by
dirt. Now they can be found scattered about the countryside,
often part
of larger arrangements of tombs and standing stones. It may
not be
Stonehenge, but they are pretty cool anyway. A nice bonus
when out
looking is finding herds of cattle that also look positively
pre-historic.
I am not sure if they have a special quality of meat, or if
they are just
kept as heirloom strains, but they would look right at home being
chased by the
hunters who built the ancient stone dolmen.
April 4, 2009
When we first moved in, we could see
that there was
something built into the bank across from our house. You
couldn't really
tell what it was, since it was all overgrown and full of trash and
leaves, but
I decided to take it on as a project. I needed this, since as renters
there is
nothing to do around the house except planting a few flowers in the
garden. Some clearing away revealed a stone fountain providing water to
the few people living along
the road, but also to people heading out of town. I cleared
away the
plants, dug out all the dirt and trash, and cleaned off a lot of moss
and mold.
Then you could see that there was an inscription carved in
the stone, and
that it was dated October 1895. Meanwhile, I have repainted
the lettering
and kept the brush cut back. The neighbors think it's a
pretty odd thing
to do, and we occasionally see someone stop and take a photo.
It turns
out this fountain was part of a bigger project by the chatelaine of the
local
chateau to bring fresh drinking water to the people. Besides
a scattering
of fountains in Esneux, she commissioned 25 cast bronze fountains for
the
streets of Liege. She also established an orphanage and
hospital, and the
Commune of Esneux showed its appreciation by erecting a great stone and
metal
statue of Charity mothering her infants in her memory.
March 8, 2009
We have been taking walks every weekend, and sometimes
during the week, now that
the light has started to return to
And here is a
link to a great website with panoramic views from all over
Liege. Sent by our friend Patz, and worth a look.
February 28, 2009
It's Carnaval time again in Europe, and
we had two rather
different experiences last weekend. On Saturday we
went up into
southern Holland (they don't celebrate at all in the Protestant north)
to the
village of Neunen to visit with Chris and Liesbeth van Eekelen.
They came
to see the Leek Parade in Tilff last year, and wanted to show how it
was done
in Brabant. They were gracious hosts, and we had a great
time.
Carnaval was a funny and raucous event, that's for sure.
On
Saturday night, there was a big party in the community center, which
spilled
out into all the local bars. It was like a giant version of
our Halloween
party: everyone was in costume, the music was loud, and plenty of beer
was
flowing. There were local brass bands everywhere, wandering
from place to
place, and playing these funny Dutch songs that everyone (except us, of
course)
knew the words to and they all sang along with, shall we say,
enthusiasm.
All the songs fell into one of two groups: one you
swayed from side
to side, and the other you bopped up and down, and everyone knew which
was
which from the very first note. It was as if you had a wild
costume
party, and the whole town came.
A few notes on Neunen:
we had been there before,
in 1976, when we were biking in Holland, and visited with the parents
of people
we knew, which was pretty coincidental. It was the home of
Vincent van
Gogh, when he was a young man with two
ears, painting somber pictures
of peasants. The problem for him was that this is a very
Catholic area,
and he was a Protestant, so he was harassed and outcast, and unable to
woo the
local girl he had his eye on, and eventually left.
Ironically, now the
town is all "favorite son" about him, with a statue in the square and
guided walks to see his house, etc. I guess all is forgiven,
at least on
the town's side. Another item: inside the big hall in the
community
center was the 30 foot high trunk of a giant tree. Apparently
it was the
tree in the town center where the judges held court over the centuries.
When it finally died of old age, they cut it down and hauled
it inside,
for old time's sake. Anyway, we threw ourselves into the
festivities, and
of course, were in costume. We wanted to go as something
related to
Liege, so dressed up as the mythical mascots of the city, Tchantchès
and his
wife Nanesse. He sprang from the paving stones of the village
on the
other side of the river, was a friend of Charlemagne, and is a common
character
in marionette plays that are very popular here. He is always
shown with a
distinctive little hat, red kerchief, work coat and with a red nose and
cheeks
from overindulging. His wife, who is the real boss of the
family, is
wearing a shawl and matching kerchief, and also red cheeked.
We don't
know if anyone there knew us from any other Dutch farmer, but we knew.
The next day was the town parade.
The theme was
Bankrupt and Ice Cold, since a lot of people in Holland had invested
their
money in Icelandic banks. All the groups and their floats
were full of
puns and word play on banks and money. Chris and Liesbeth had
the
difficult task of not just translating, but trying to explain why
something was
a joke. It was amazing how many things people came up with.
Everything was presided over by the Prince of the Carnaval,
who afterwards
will return to his previous role as manager of the local supermarket.
It
was all very charming and fun, full of local flavor.
On Tuesday, actual Mardi Gras, we went
to the Belgian town
of Binche. This claims the most famous and traditional of
Carnaval
festivities, with roots back at least to the 14th century, and the
whole event
has been named part of the World Heritage by UNESCO. Binche
is otherwise
a rather drab and run-down industrial town, that has lost much of its
industry,
so this is the big event of the year for them. The main
characters are
the Gilles, who have to be born and raised in the town, and who join
the groups
that their great-great-greats belonged to centuries before.
They have
certain strict rules: never go out without an accompanying drummer,
never sit
in public, never get drunk. That last sums up the difference
between the
two parades, I guess. During the big Mardi Gras parade, the
Gilles don
enormous ostrich feather hats, and I do mean enormous, and march, or
rather creep,
down the streets, throwing oranges at the crowd, and I do mean at.
All
in all, we can't recommend it. Every group was dressed
essentially the
same, all the bands seemed to be playing the same song, is was way too
self
important and not enough fun, and it got ugly as these guys
were throwing
oranges as hard as they could right into the crowd. As we
walked about
town before the parade we had noticed all the windows covered with
protective
screens, and then we understood why. People were getting
hurt, mothers
were trying to protect their children, and it seemed rather joyless and
mean
spirited. Halfway through we left, figuring it was just a
matter of time
before getting a broken nose or black eye. So, if you are in
Europe at
Carnaval, our advice is: go to Holland, or at least to
Stavelot or
Malmedy, or even Tilff. Either way, here's some pics.
February 7, 2009
We have been through the whole circle of
the year, and
watched the seasons from our house in Belgium. Besides the
rise and fall
of the river, we see the changing hillside across the way. At
the crest
of the slope is a distinctive stand of trees, and here's a set of pictures taken of it
during the past year.
Today we braved the chilly weather and
went to the Val Saint
Lambert. Just up the Meuse from Liege, this was the site of a
great
abbey, closed down following the French revolution and sold
off to
industry. It became what was the world's
largest and most
renowned maker of crystal and glassware. In the early 20th
century as
many as 5000 people were employed making 120,000 vases, glasses, and
decorative
artifacts of all sorts every day. One odd tid-bit:
when they wanted
to make a small number of pieces, they could be formed using a wooden
mold
rather than one of steel. But, it was important to use only
pear wood.
Go figure. Early in the 19th century it was
developed into almost a
city of its own, with generations of workers living in company houses,
buying
at the company store, and with the children in company schools.
It was
progressive for its time, although we can see the workers were thereby
completely dependent on their jobs. Today, what's left of the
houses is
now subsidized housing and there are fewer than 100 workers.
In the face
of intense competition from Asia and eastern Europe (remember all the
crystal
in Prague), they depend on tourism and support from the region.
A remnant
of the factory is operational, there's an historical show,
demonstrations of
glassblowing and an exhibit of beautiful glass and crystal objects,
large and
small. We bought a small vase, but for us the real treasures
were found
in a big trash heap out back where we found a lot of interesting bits
of broken
glass. A few pictures from Val St. Lambert can be found here.
This was also a big social weekend for
us. On Friday
night we went to hear a band in the ancient Chateau Avourie in
Anthines.
The venue was fun, to think of all the people who had
listened to music
in that hall before us. Unfortunately, the band's sound
system was poor,
and it was hard to listen to, and we didn't stay very long.
But, we
did take the opportunity to wander around a bit and wonder at the
marvelous
(marvel at the wondrous?) great oak staircase in the big tower.
Then, on
Saturday, we went to the housewarming of a colleague in Antwerp.
She
moved into a town house that she described as being in the "Belgian
Brutal" style. Her husband is an architect, so that makes
sense.
I guess I would call it austere, rather than brutal, but it
was all
straight lines, and no frou-frou. We have never lived in a
city, and it
would be weird for us to be so tight with so many people.
But, it was a
good party, and we got to visit with the spouses of some co-workers,
and eat
some good, catered in, Moroccan food.
January 25, 2009
Well, everyone is all abuzz
with Obama mania.
It's Obamapalooza, the Barackolypse! People here
are very excited.
We, and it seemed everyone else, watched the ceremony live.
Mark
told me I got an invitation in the mail, and I could have gone up for
some
sharing time with 2 million of my closest friends, but I just couldn't
squeeze
in a trip for that. We were talking at work about what we
would do first
thing if we were president - my favorite answer was to demand to see
the alien.
"I know there is one!" We have been getting
congratulatory
e-mails from people here, and everyone wants to know if he's going to
be up to
the (mighty big) task. Let's all hope so.
I know it was cold in Durham in the last
weeks, but Belgium
just went through 2 weeks of some of the coldest weather in ages.
It
steadily reached between -20 and -15°C at night, which is right around
0°F, and
any way you look at it, that's cold! It snowed a few times,
too, and that
stayed around, so it was really pretty and a nice change from the usual
grey of
winter. The coolest part was watching the river freeze.
It never
froze across, which would be amazing, considering how fast it moves,
but the
banks started to ice up, there was a steady stream of ice floes, and
the old
canal froze over solid. Needless to say, we did not go
skating. The
Dutch were all excited, since canal skating is a major traditional
activity.
The amazing part to me was how many people spoke casually
about the times
they had fallen through the ice. Just the thought of that is
enough to
keep me away! Here's a few pictures from around Esneux.
Once the weather warmed up a bit, we
were back to the usual:
cold, grey, rainy, windy and just downright nasty. OK, so no
one visits
Belgium for the weather. Yesterday it cleared off a bit, but
wasn't
really nice, so we made an outing to the Royal Museum of Central Africa
near
Brussels. It is a big, dusty, old fashioned museum,
established around
1910 to display some of the exotic human and animal life in the Congo,
and to
celebrate Belgium's bringing the light of civilization to darkest
Africa.
In fact, the history itself is pretty dark. From
the 1870's to
1908, the Congo was the private possession of the Belgian king, Leopold
II, and
it is always at the top of the list of examples of the brutal abuse of
a colony
by rapacious Europeans, carried out under the guise of helping the
savages. Millions died, and vast wealth made its way north,
leaving ruin
behind. To their credit, the Belgian government eventually
took the
colony away from the king and tried to offer some actual aid.
By the time
independence was declared in 1960, half the people could read and
write, but
there were still almost no Africans with any real experience in running
the
country, government or private. Recently, of course, the
Congo is in the
news again, and still suffering.
Anyway, the museum had lots of stuffed
animals and scary
masks, and had a new, though rather small, section inserted to show
some of the
history and admit some of the sins. They are planning a big
renovation in
the next few years, and I am sure they will make it much more PC.
It was
interesting to learn more of the life of Henry Stanley, of "Dr.
Livingstone, I presume" fame. He was a Welsh bastard, moved
to New
Orleans at 18, fought on both sides in the American Civil War, reported
on the
Indian Wars in Missouri, and then headed off to Africa as a
reporter,
eventually being the first (white) person to traverse across Africa,
through
the jungles of the Congo basin. He was then hired by Leopold
to go up the
Congo River and make "treaties" with the local chiefs, which of
course were then used to take everything for the king. I do
bring this up
when any smug Europeans mention how the US treated the Indians.
You can
read more here
and here,
and it's pretty interesting, but grim. And the creepiest part
about the
museum: When I told people we had been there, a common
reaction was an
expression of disgust, and talk about how there used to be
stuffed people
on display as well.
January 10, 2009 Happy Birthday, Mark!
Happy New Year, all! We are
easing back into our
routine, after a few weeks of Holiday festivities. Our little Angels came to visit,
for a way too short time.
Typically, we piled into the (way too small) car and did some
touring in
Brussels, Amsterdam and Munich. We went to
Munich looking for a
White Christmas, and weren't disappointed. We went up to the
top of the
Zugspitz, which was like going to the ice planet Hoth, and had a
totally
Bavarian evening in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. A couple of boys
came out to
do the liederhosen slappy dance, and looked rather embarrassed, and our
boys
had to agree that this exceeded anything we had every asked of them.
The
highlight of the trip was a visit to the Deutsches Museum, a fantastic
science
and technology palace in Munich. This place is filled with
entire ships,
planes, coal mines, you name it. At night we enjoyed extreme
mugs of beer
and plenty of roasted pig knuckles and the quiet of the city at
Christmas. Back
in Esneux we played games, getting schooled by Mark, sampled
some of the
stranger Belgian ales, and visited some of the local sights.
The time
went by too quickly, but we were happy they could come to see us, and
we'll
miss them until we get back to Durham for a visit.
December 19, 2008
We are into the Christmas season here as
everywhere, and
there are few interesting similarities and differences. The
Season starts
in earnest here on Dec 5th, Sinterklaas Eve. More on
that in a minute.
Especially in Holland and Flanders, that's when presents are
given and
parties had. Also, on Sinterklaas Day people get chocolate
letters with
their initials like these: deluxe, like this
gift from our friends Diederik
and Karin, or plain, from the grocery store, each decorated with a
grinning,
chocolaty likeness. This early gift giving means there is
less emphasis
on Christmas Day itself, and so people work right up to Christmas Eve,
and then
have a quiet time with family.
We recently found an actual mall in
For ourselves, we have put up the little tree we took to
December 13, 2008
I talked about how I am spending so much
time in the car,
going back and forth to Amsterdam, for instance. Well, Lena
has been
giving me a hard time, asking "If you're so Euro, why don't you take
the
train?" She is absolutely right, and so I have been.
It's
safer, should be easy, healthier, better for my carbon footprint, etc.
That's
the Good. I have also had a few other experiences, that I
could call the
Bad and the Crazy. First, more on the Good. It is
quicker than
driving, in most cases, and certainly more predictable, and probably
cheaper,
except that having the company pay for my car and fuel makes that less
visible.
And, yes, it can give you that righteous feeling that is the
pay-off for
doing the right thing. And the Bad? I took the
EuroStar from Esneux
to Nottingham (yes, England, where the city streets have names like
Maid Marion
Way, Friar Lane and Robin Hood Road), and it was easy and smooth and
made all
my connections easily. It is a little weird, but not a
problem, to
realize you are spending almost an hour deep under the water of the
English
Channel. The newly refurbished station at St. Pancras in
London is a
beautiful work of architecture, too. I know, that still
sounds like Good.
On the return, we were in the middle of the tunnel, and we
stopped.
And sat. For 2 hours. Seems the train
ahead had a breakdown,
and we were blocked. Finally, they announced the
other train was
out of the way, and we would be going. We moved a little, and
lurched a
bit, and stopped again. This time we are told there was "a
traction
problem." The next several hours were spent trying to get the
train
out of the tunnel, and then re-assembling the whole thing, since I
think they
had to uncouple cars and pull them out a few at a time to get enough
oomph to
get out. I guess normally they just coast up the slope from
the bottom of
the tunnel. All in all, about 5 hours of delay. If
I wanted to sit
on board for hours before getting going, I could fly.
And the Crazy? I know that if
you grow up using the
trains it probably all seems logical, but it's been a learning
experience.
For instance, in Brussels one of the big stations is called
Midi,
if you speak French, and Zuid if Flemish. So, it is
not enough that
there is a translated pair of names for everything. In this
case, there
are two entirely different names: Mid (or maybe Noon) in French, and
South in
Flemish. And there are usually bus and train stations near
each other,
with the same name. And this is the best part:
Since both the
French and Flemish words for train start with T, the train stations are
indicated on the schedules with a B. And, naturally, since
the French and
Flemish words for bus start with B, the bus stations are indicated with
a T.
A secret anti-tourist device, perhaps?
Going to
Amsterdam, it is hard to make a
connection from Liege, so Steph drove me to Maastricht, just over the
border in
Holland. I rush into the station, late as usual, and look to
buy a
ticket. There are these nice yellow machines, ready to go.
We key
in the destination, it says "give me 30 Euro." There is a
card
slot, so I put in my Belgian credit card. No, it does not
take credit
cards. I try my Belgian debit card. It is just spat
back out.
I try feeding cash into the card slot, also
rejected. So I go
and stand at the ticket window, where again no credit cards are taken,
only
cash. I ask about the machines: turns out they only
take Dutch
debit cards or coins (30 Euro coins would weigh about a pound!).
So much
for the concept of One Europe. Coming back, I am in the
station, and
there is a window with a sign over it saying "tickets and
information." So, I stand in line, only to be told
dismissively that
they don't sell train tickets, only metro, and I have to go outside the
station
to the little handy shop to get a train ticket. Hmm.
So, that worked
OK that time, and I got my ticket for Maastricht. The next
time, I asked
for a ticket to Liege. The girl asks, "Where?" so I give her
the Dutch name, Luik. She still has a blank look, and asks
can I spell
it. She looks some more on her computer, but nothing.
So it seems you
can only buy tickets within the Netherlands, and not outside, except at
a
larger station. And you can't buy a return ticket when you
go, unless you
are coming back the same day. And you can't buy them in
advance.
And you can't buy them on line. And online, after
some learning,
you can find schedules, but no prices. All of which is
paradoxical, since
they really do want people to ride the trains instead of clogging up
all the
roads. But it seems that the elusive concept of customer
service is still
a little out of reach for the public servants of the train bureaucracy.
So, as one must, I try to learn and adapt, and it gets easier
and easier.
November 23, 2008
Steph has returned, and life is
back to what passes for
normal here. Just as in Durham, she appreciated that an
effort had been
made to clean the place up, while being forced to admit that things
were not
really up to the highest standards. The week was mostly spent
restocking
the larder and actually cleaning up and doing wash, while outside it
was dark
and rainy; you see what an exotic lifestyle we have here.
We woke up
Saturday to a few inches of snow, and did the sensible thing to curl up
and
stay inside all day. The forecast for Sunday was, and I
quote, "Cold;
snow showers in the morning followed by snow, sleet, and freezing rain
in the
afternoon." But despite fair warning, we
thought we would
drive up to the Hautes Fagnes (High Fens) and look for some more snow.
This is in the south east of Belgium, on the border with
Germany, and gets
lots of rain, and is really a high, flat, swampy grassland.
We went up
to the highest point in Belgium (694 meters), where we had been in the
fall.
Then it was a beautiful blue sky day, and all the grasslands
were golden.
Today, everything was in black and white, with snow stuck
tight to all
the trees. We walked about a bit, but it was in the low 20's
and the wind
was blowing like crazy. Needless to say, we retreated to the
warmth of
the car pretty soon. You can see some pictures of the snow and fall
here. By
this time, it was snowing again in earnest, and the drive back reminded
us of
driving in Colorado - lots of billowing plumes of snow sweeping across
the road
and the icy wipers slapping. This cold weather and the ever
earlier
darkness signal winter is here, and the contrast to the endless days
and
evenings of summer is dramatic. By the time we got home, it
was dark and
the roads were slick, and we were glad to be back safe and
sound, and
enjoying the soothing richness of a creamy Belgian ale.
November 8, 2008
I am back in Belgium after two weeks on
the home turf.
It was good to be in the US for the last weeks of the
election. It
was great to see all the mates, and everyone was very sweet and we had
drinks,
or lunch, or dinner, or played cards, or just hung out. Thank
you all for
not forgetting us!
Everyone's first question, also on my return to Belgium, was "How was
the
house?" I can say that all was fine. I am sure
there was some
intense cleaning up that went on just before our arrival, but all was
in order
and there was no permanent damage. Thanks, Boys!
The only problem
was that the lawn mower broke in the middle of the summer, and it was a
rainy
one, so it looked a bit like the African savannah, but that was finally
beaten
back into submission. It was an intense two weeks of lawn and
garden
care, car maintenance and home repair, but nothing out of the ordinary,
only
compressed in time.
This being the first time in a long time
that North Carolina
was in play, I got a good dose of campaign ads. In previous
elections, we
hardly saw any. I am glad that I got a taste, but am also
glad that I
missed most of the previous year's. And the phone calls!
You could
not be in the house for 5 minutes before the phone rang again with
"please
give money, please give time, please vote." And for some
reason,
John was besieged with calls from the McCain camp. Perhaps
the
demographic of NC State student? On returning to Europe, it
seems people
here were just as excited about the result as at home. They
realize of
course that he is our president, and not theirs, but what happens in
the US
effects everyone, so their interest is understandable. And
the Belgians
are jealous that we can even elect a government at all, something they
have
been having trouble with for the last year.
My Mom was also there to visit, and a
pleasure as always.
There were, as usual, some spirited discussions on politics
and the
economy: liberal pinko Euro-socialist vs. reactionary tool of
the running
dog capitalists, but I hope all in a good spirit. And
speaking of
spirits, it was weird to not be gearing up for Halloween. I
would be
outside in the evening, and getting all the cues from the weather, and
the
turning trees, and that special fall light, and thinking "I should be
mixing paper-mâché!"
We went to some
friends' on Halloween night, and we had to dress up.
We went as the
scariest thing we could think of, but were the only ones in costume
(except for
Chris's devil tail, but I think he wears that all the time).
And Mark
continued his incredible pumpkin carving, with another great pair, each
really
scary, but to different people. Lena came home to let the
Moms have at
least a bit of costume making time, and went as a dream girl for dirty
old men.
Here are some pics and I will add
one of
In an effort to make this more of a
Blog, I thought I would
plug a few things and add some links. I am listening to
podcasts all the
time, mostly since I am in the car a lot. Here are a
few, including
a favorite topic: the economy! First, This
American Life is a great radio show that has been on
for years, and basically tells stories about people's experiences of
all sorts.
I recommend it highly. If you go to the site,
search for Squirrel
Cop and listen to it. That story is a funny one, and the rest
of the
episode can make us glad for the lives we have. This year
they have done
two shows about the economy, and they both really help to understand
some of
the actions and their consequences. The first (the Giant
Pool of
Money) is the best and talks about how we got into the
mortgage defaults.
The second (Another
Frightening Show About the Economy) is more about the credit
crisis itself.
The second series that I have been enjoying is the Planet
Money podcasts,
which can be found here, and there is
also a blog here. They
work hard to make all the arcana in the news understandable to the
beneficiaries of all this crap, namely you and me. So, if you
want to
know more about ted-spreads and credit default swaps or why there is a
problem
at all, give it a try. And for a briefer tutorial in more
graphic form, here is another view of the
mortgage crisis.
And finally, a pitch for a different
sort of series: The TED
Talks. This is a conference on Technology, Entertainment,
Design held
every year, with speakers of all sorts invited to give 10-20 minute
talks on an
incredible variety of topics. So, if you want to hear
accomplished and
interesting persons discoursing on subjects they are knowledgeable and
passionate about, tune in to TED.
Well, that's it for now.
Stephanie returns in a week;
in the meantime, I am living a rude and bestial existence, sleeping
on rags in the corner, and snuffling in the garden
for grubs.
Such periods only reinforce for me the profoundly
beneficial and
civilizing effect that women have on the human condition. Or
at least on
mine.
Lots of updates! Happy Birthday, John!
October 12, 2008
This weekend was "Wallonie
Welcome" in Esneux.
We had gotten a great brochure, and a letter inviting us to share a
"glass
of friendship" at the kick-off, which we did, of course.
There were
lots of artists holding open house, and some chateaux that are usually
closed
were open to the public. We took a guided walk around the
Loop of the
Ourthe, and got a tour of (again, I know you are jealous!) the water
treatment
plant. The guide was pretty good, talking about "villages of
bacteria" that purify the water. It was a challenge, all in
French.
There was a look around some old charcoal and lime kilns, but
the best
part was a good look into the traces of the old canal. We
talk about this
on the page about Locks,
and it was interesting to see the remains in town that can still be
found.
We realized we had been walking right over clear signs, and
totally
ignorant of them. We found some locks and lock-keeper's
houses, and
could see the bed of the canal and the tow path in lots of places.
Now we
know what to look for! There was a great exhibit of old
pictures, and it
is amazing how much Esneux has changed, and also not changed, in the
last
century.
We met up with Jodi and Thierry, and a
friend of hers from
Mexico. We had North America covered, that's for sure.
We visited a
man making beautiful fused glass creations, and who also restored old
stained
glass, and had a nice tour of the atelier of a Spaniard making
painted
tiles of all sorts. That was good for us, since the only
people we can
really understand speaking French are others for whom it is also a
second
language, so we could follow him well.
On Sunday, we were able to go into the
grounds of the
Chateau le Fy, the fairy tale castle above Esneux. It was a
perfectly
beautiful fall day, and we visited the chateau with Katja and Horst.
The
view sitting on the terrace high above the river and the village was
breathtaking. After, we went up to Rond Chene, and this time
could walk
about without getting yelled at by the keeper. A nice weekend
of local
culture, all in all.
October 6, 2008
A few bits and
pieces: we visited some outrageous
engineering works here a while ago. This link will fill you
in about (yes, hold your
excitement!) locks.
This weekend was the annual "Nocturne on the Slopes" in Liege.
It is fall and the days are getting shorter, so a nighttime
event is
organized, where luminaries are set up in all the streets in the old
heart of
the city, and also lighting up the narrow, twisting paths and alleyways
up the
hills that rise up to the old fortress above. Many people
came out to
wander about, eat and drink and enjoy some street entertainers.
The most
spectacular was the huge stairs (406 steps) rising up to the Citadel,
covered
with patterns of candles.
And if you recall, in Tilff in the
spring is the Leek
Festival. A part of that is a parade with "giants," 12 foot
tall paper mache creatures both realistic and imaginary. In
the fall,
there is the "Reassembly
of the Giants," where they are brought out in the square and
paraded
about again. The only reason seems to be that they have them,
and might
as well use them more than once a year. It was a pretty day,
and we went
down to watch and down a few, and had a nice visit with a couple we met
in the
foreigner's office at the local town hall. Jodi is Canadian,
and
partnered with Thierry, a Belgian, and living in Tilff, and we were
both in the
commune office taking care of bureaucratic paperwork. Total
coincidence:
they are post-docs in Neuroscience, and know people Steph
knew at Duke,
including Peter Holland. A nice couple, and I am sure we will
see them
again.
October 4, 2008
Lots of catching up to do, that's for
sure. September
was taken up with a big visit from Stephanie's parents, and her cousin
Doug and
his wife Alice. They enjoyed a typical American two and a
half week
whirlwind tour of the continent, all masterfully arranged by Steph.
They
got a taste of 4 great cities: Brussels, Amsterdam, Paris and Rome.
They
rented a van with nice big windows, and when not driving to Amsterdam
or Paris,
headed off to explore Belgium, and even took a quick side trip to
Germany, via
Luxembourg. A few highlights: we took a rainy
afternoon to explore
an open-air museum not far from us, where houses and farms from all
over
Belgium have been dismantled, moved and re-assembled; there were nice
boat rides
through both Paris and Amsterdam, giving a different perspective for
those
cities; the tourist experience was completed in Paris by a classic
run-in with
a snooty Parisian waiter; a random stop in Germany led to a
surprisingly
nice visit to Vianden, with a great castle and medieval city;
a poke
around the hotel room in Amsterdam uncovered a leafy souvenir of that
city -
there were no takers in the party, so it went to the front desk;
the
weather in Brussels cooperated wonderfully, and the day there was
probably the
favorite of the city trips; in Rome, summer was still in full
swing, and
everyone wished they had brought cooler clothes; a troupe of
local
players put on a re-enactment (of sorts!) of a famous murder in a
nearby
chateau; a visit to a local cemetery for American soldiers and
fliers from
WW II was very moving; and there was good eating all round, as lots of
great
Belgian bread, beer, pastries and chocolate went down, along with
carbonades,
boulettes de Liege, mussels, lots of fries, and even an Indonesian rice
table.
It went by fast, and a good time was had
by all, and it was
especially nice to get to spend some time with Doug and Alice and get
re-acquainted with them. Some slides are here.
It's a big file, as you might imagine.
August 23, 2008
We took a trip to Prague for a few days,
in the Czech
Republic. It's a little hard to remember it is not
Czechoslovakia, which
has gone the way of Yugoslavia. People in Belgium cite
Czechoslovakia as
a country that was formed not too long ago, and has since split up,
with no
real ill effects, as a possible model for the future of
Belgium.
Anyway, we have to say we did not have a great trip, but I am
not sure it
was the fault of Prague. From the minute we arrived, we got a
bad vibe
from the feeling that it was incredibly crowded and touristic. Now, we
appreciate the irony that we want to be tourists without having to deal
with
all those other tourists, but they should all stay home when
we are out.
Prague gave the impression that the city had no existence
outside of
pandering to tourists. The only other place we had that
feeling was
Venice, and it does put us off. I don't think it is as true
for Prague,
since it is a city of ~1.5 million people, and a major center of
commerce and
culture, but getting called to by touts in front of every
restaurant gets
old. On top of that, it poured rain after the first evening
we got there,
plus we had some domestic issues distracting us as well.
But what about the city?
Prague escaped most of the
destruction visited on many other European cities, and also went into
decline
soon after its hey-day, so there is a wealth of beautiful, and
beautifully
preserved, architecture. This ranges from the medieval,
through the
baroque, to the 20th century. There are many squares filled
with brightly
painted and highly decorated buildings. On one tower, there
is an
amazingly complicated astronomical clock, started in 1410, that shows
the
phases of the moon, the zodiacal signs, hours after sun-set, and has
statues
moving and ringing the hours (click
here for a demonstration).
Our favorite is the Art Nouveau (yes,
again) from the early
20th century, and there was a great museum of the works of Alphonse
Mucha, who
made beautiful, flowing posters and illustrations. Above the
city sits
Prague Castle, not so much a castle as a collection of buildings,
mostly
churches. In the Cathedral, there is a Mucha designed stained
glass
window, which was really different from the usual. Another
oddity in the
cathedral is a huge and ornate shrine to a priest who was drowned in
the river
for refusing to divulge something said in confession. His
body was
exhumed some years later, and his tongue was seen to be as fresh and
pink as a
baby's, so he and the tongue got a special place in the church.
One night
we went to a Prague tradition: Black Theater, where the stage is black
and only
lit with blacklights and the performers wear fluorescent outfits and
fly
through the air with their props. The one we saw was rather
silly, with a
burlesque theme to tie the skits together, but some parts were fun.
Afterwards, we strolled through the lit-up city, finally
thinking we
needed to come back sometime in the off season and give it another try.
August 16, 2008
A few random observations:
- As part of my French reading program, I got a copy of "Little Red
Riding
Hood" (free at the grocery store, with the right purchase).
You know
how in our version, in the end the woodsman comes and saves everyone,
and even
cuts open the wolf to save Grandma? Well, in this one, at the
end the
wolf jumps out of bed and eats Red. The moral is, "Don't talk
to
strangers, because they might kill you."
- Speaking of the grocery store, our local is DelHaze, which also owns
Food
Lion. And the logo is the same lion we are used to seeing in
Durham.
Ah, a touch of home.
- And speaking of groceries, there is more emphasis on natural foods
here.
Eggs in the regular grocery store are arranged according to
whether the
hens were "on the ground" or "raised off the ground," and
there is lots of "Biologic" (organic, to us) food. But even
the
ones from tortured chickens living in cages cost about 40¢ each.
We got
some jam recently that was a bit extreme though, since it had several
pieces of
wood (bits of branches, 2" long and 1/2" around) in it. Hmmm,
crunchy goodness.
- We saw a little of the Olympics in a hotel recently, but that was it.
A
major bite is that there are tons of internet sites that stream all
sorts of
stuff that is on TV. All the networks in the US have sites,
and you can
watch lots of shows the day after they are broadcast....provided you
live where
you could have watched it on TV. But, they are all blocked
from streaming
outside the US. So, like the shows we used to watch, we can't
watch the
Olympics either. So, you can watch as long as you chose not
to when
broadcast. I am baffled that this is thought to be a good
idea. I guess
we will miss the excitement of the conventions, too.
- We went to see the new Batman movie in Liege. This was in
the newest
theater, and it was like a smallish mall cineplex, but stacked into a
multi-story building. The biggest difference: no
concessions.
How can you watch a movie without popcorn? It's
just so wrong.
And more interesting, how do they stay in business without
selling
something with a 99% profit margin? Regarding the movie, I
didn't like
it. It was very scattered, and seemed to rely on explosions
rather than
dialogue or other action to advance the "plot." And I was
left
with the creepy image of Dick Cheney sitting alone in the dark, wearing
his
mask, watching the movie over and over, and muttering to himself, "I am
the Batman....oh, yes....I am the Batman." This and "24"
are the best synopses of our current foreign and domestic policy,
without all
the messy consequences. The difference is that Bruce Wayne
and Jack Bauer
acknowledge that what they are doing is wrong, even if they believe
it's
necessary, and are willing to take the penalty for it. They
don't have a
squadron of lawyers and lawmakers lining up to be sure they never have
a price
to pay. OK, enough liberal Euro-ranting!
- I have been reading some books by Georges Simenon, a local boy who
made good.
He wrote a series of short detective novels featuring
Inspector Maigret,
a Frenchman, and not to be confused with Rene Magritte, the Belgian
painter,
nor Detective Poirot, who was also Belgian, though written by an
Englishwoman.
Simenon wrote hundreds of books, lived in dozens of
cities, in
scores of houses, and supposedly bedded thousands of women.
Busy guy, and
I can recommend him, though of course not his lifestyle!
- We decided to do a little grilling on the bar-b-que, and bought some
charcoal
at the grocery. Another surprise! It was really
charcoal, chunks of
actual wood, made into charcoal some old-fashioned way. It
was weird,
since it was hard and clinky, like ceramic almost. And then
this
disappointment: the starter you get is a gel which is so
totally safe
it's no fun at all. You can squirt it right onto the flames
and it
doesn't even flare up and risk total conflagration. Oh, well.
Although this charcoal is more natural and all, I have to
say, briquettes
are a technological improvement - the real stuff is much
harder to start,
burns slower, and is hard to keep going. But, it does help me
get in
touch with my caveman roots - I want to go kill a giant sloth or
something and
just throw it on the coals.
July 13, 2008
Last weekend we took a great road trip
to Berlin. It
was about a 6 hour drive across Germany, although we took a good bit
longer.
After so many days sitting in traffic in Holland, it was
great to be able
to just enjoy the open road. And yes, they do drive
fast in
Germany. If there is a limit, there are signs every kilometer
or so, and
people do obey the speed limit. But most of the time there is
no limit
except your common sense. For me that was cruising about
90-100 miles per
hour, and I was by no means going faster than most. Even at
that speed,
you get passed by a lot of people going way faster, so you
don't spend
any more time in the fast lane than you need to. We had not
gone very far
when we came on a group whose trip had taken a severe turn
for the worse.
There was a big plume of smoke up ahead, and when we got to
it, there was
a full size tour bus totally in flames, and all the passengers standing
out
along the road. It was intense, and you could feel the heat
clear on the
other side of the road. The fire brigade had just arrived,
and was
applying some pretty sad streams of water, but this thing was just
going to
burn itself out. Fortunately for us, it was in the other
lane, or we
would have joined miles of parked cars with a long wait ahead.
We stopped for lunch in a little town,
and went up to a huge
monument to Kaiser Wilhelm. It is high above the town on one
side of a
gap in the mountains where the river flows through. It gave a
nice view
over the countryside, beneath the benevolent gaze and outstretched hand
of the
Kaiser.
Going into Berlin, I was surprised at
the amount of wooded,
and undeveloped, land. I would have thought by being hemmed
in for 40
years the city would have been bursting at the seams, but it was rather
suburban until right into the city. We found our hotel, in a
typical
creaky old building, and set out exploring. General
impressions:
Berlin is a very attractive city, rather low in profile, with
wide
boulevards and a clean and airy feel, and a lot of 20th century Modern
buildings. The people were nice, and several times when we
were lost with
perplexed looks on our faces, folks stopped and asked if they could
help.
We bought passes for the public transport, and rode subways,
trains and
buses all over. We found a couple of restaurants that
featured local
cuisine, and none featured sausages and wursts, as we were far from
Bavaria.
One typical Berlin dish, though, is curry wurst, which is
just a plain
sausage with ketchup on it. These we saw everywhere as a snack.
And we
went into a few pastry shops, and are still perplexed why JFK would
declare,
"I am a doughnut!"
The first night (July 5th) we strolled
out to get our
bearings and went to the Brandenburg Gate, right in the center of the
city.
We heard music and saw crowds milling about, and stumbled
onto the Grand
Opening party for the new US Embassy. It had been on
this location
before WWII, but was destroyed, and then the property was on the
Eastern side,
and anyway the seat of government moved to Bonn. Now that
Berlin is again
the capitol, the property was reclaimed and a new embassy built.
I can't
say it is very attractive, and of course fits the new, post-9/11
fortress
model. But the party was fun, and we listened to a German
Elvis and a
German Rock-a-billy band, and enjoyed the crowd. One
interesting item:
there were tents around with various groups promoting
German-American
relations. One was shared between the Democrats Abroad and
the
Republicans Abroad. On the Democrat side, there were crowds
of people
clamoring for info on absentee voting and wanting buttons, etc.
On the
Republican side, one lonely and bored guy smoking a cigarette.
It is
clear which way the ex-pat vote is leaning.
We spent part of our days in various museums, several of which
are
together on the aptly named Museum Island in the Spree. Two
interesting
bits: The Pergamon Museum houses the greater part of an
entire Greek
temple from a site in Turkey. It is bizarre to come into an
enormous room
and see this thing installed inside. There was also a very
interesting
exhibit on Babylon, in present day Iraq. The centerpiece is
the Ishtar
Gate, covered in beautiful rich blue tiles, with giant images of lions,
dragons
and bulls. Again, a huge bit of architecture picked up,
transported and
rebuilt in a museum in Berlin. The theme was that we are
still living in
the Babylonian Era, and that all the principle elements of our current
world
view and social order were in place 4000 years ago. We also
soaked up a
good bit of Egyptian and Greek artifacts, including an entire room of
randy
Greek pottery. Jumping to more modern times, we went to a
great museum
full of the most beautiful Art Nouveau and Deco creations.
The central
theme of that movement was that art should not be separated
from everyday
life, so it was all about architecture, furniture, decorations,
utensils, etc.,
all in a flowing style reflecting nature, or opposing that, with a
decorative
and geometric look. It's amazing to think of living in a house bursting
with
chairs, coffeepots, windows and lamps like these.
The signs of East Berlin are fading fast. It was impressive
to see photos
of both the destruction from WWII, and that resulting from the Wall,
and how
much it has changed in 20 years. Vast areas that had been
wasteland in
1989 were now filled with new office towers. We went to a
small part of
the wall that was in its original form. This meant a 10 high
foot
concrete wall, a barren dead zone that would have been filled with
barriers and
barbed wire, illuminated day and night, and then a second wall.
All this
to keep their own people from leaving. There was a nice
exhibit showing
how this had developed over the years, and especially the impact when
it was
built, splitting parts of the city right down the middle of the street.
What was most amazing was that it was being updated and made
more
impassable right up until the end. There are still some parts
of the city
in the East where you can see the grey, stolid buildings, but today
they
don't look so grim, since they are leavened with color and
activity.
It is hard for a building to be so imposing with a group of
multi-colored, spiky-headed punks walking by.
The highlight of the trip, and our
reason for going at this
time, was to see Radiohead in concert. They played in a small
outdoor
amphitheater in the woods, similar to the Hooverphonic show in venue,
and of
course it rained, but still a great show by a great band. It
was worth
the price of admission just to see the Thom Yorke Crazy Dance.
I swear,
if I waggled my head that much, it would fly completely off.
A high point
was everyone singing along with the words, "Rain down, rain down, come
on
rain down on me," during a break in the weather, defying the rain to
start
up again. Getting back into town took a while, as we joined
1000's and
1000's trying to get back on the trains, but a great time was had by
all.
Finally, we stopped in Potsdam on the
way home.
Besides the post-war conference that divided up Germany, it
is the site
of Sans Souci (No Worries), a huge collection of palaces, parks and
gardens
built during the 18th and 19th centuries by the Kings of Prussia, who
eventually became the rulers of Germany. The gardens and
parkland were
beautiful, and it was a lovely day exploring, with some palace, grand
or small,
always around the corner. The ride home was uneventful, and
we delighted
to get home and see that the landlord had (largely) fixed the leaking
roof.
There was a huge thunderstorm the next day, and only a few
drops in the
house, so things are looking good on that front.
June 30, 2008
One way we spend our weekends is
visiting the local
countryside, and especially the many chateaux. There are some
slides
posted for two: Jehay and Freyr. Both
are renaissance fortified
castles/mansions in the valley of the Meuse. This part of
Belgium is very
industrialized, and as you get near Liege it gets rather grim, but up
off the
river, or in quiet stretches, there are all these beautiful places.
These
two had wonderful gardens, where we mostly spent our time.
One featured
extremely perky bronze statuary, while other had lots of highly
manicured
hedges, best seen from high on the cliffs across the river.
Also in the
area we came upon an exceptional set of 4 townhouses decorated with
floral
themed Art Nouveau tiles. Enjoy!
June 24, 2008
We're right at the longest days of the
year, and it's
amazing how long they are here. You can walk around at 10:30
at night and
there is pink in the sky and no stars to speak of. It only
gets dark
about 12, and it seems so strange. I see that
Esneux is about on
the latitude of Calgary, Alberta. We would think of that as
being so far
north. And people here are surprised to realize that Durham
is about even
with Gibraltar.
We took advantage of the
longest days last weekend,
and had three really fun days. Friday we went to a concert in
a little
town on the other side of the plateau, to see Hooverphonic.
Belgian band,
cute blond singer, dreamy alt-rock. To get there we walked
street after
street, and then past a tent city on a soccer field, then through dense
woods,
and finally out in a glade filled with drunken Belgian youth.
Great show,
cooled by a light misty rain. On Monday, Stephanie was talking about
the weekend
with a girl in the lab. She said she had wanted to go, but
didn't
because of the weather. Steph had to mock her, if only
lightly.
Saturday night Holland was playing Russia in the Euro 2008
football
tourney. I may be exaggerating, but it seems like there are
several 'Big
Cup Competition' a year. Anyway, this was a big
event, so we put on
the stylish orange-wear we picked up on Queen's Day, and went up to
Maastricht,
the closest Dutch city. We had a lovely Turkish dinner on the
market
square, watching the evening fall (very slowly!), then watched
the match
on TVs set up outside a bar. It was fun, but Holland didn't
do very
well, lost, and was out of the running, so not as exciting as it could
have
been. At least they didn't get to a shootout to decide the
winner.
Finally, on Sunday we walked about Liege, way up on the
Citadel.
This meant climbing all 373 steps of this grand staircase
that goes right
up to the top. Needless to say, we took our time.
By Monday, I was
ready to get back to work and get some rest.
June 14, 2008
Every town in Belgium has at least one
memorial to those who
died in the World Wars. Just in Esneux there are many.
What is
striking is how many are not the usual "To our fallen heroes."
Rather, they are are pointed and explicit in their
condemnation of the
enemy. After seeing these, it is amazing that the survivors
have been
able to offer as much forgiveness as they have, or at the least, been
able to
live together. These also serve as reminders that
any nation, no
matter how advanced or civilized they may consider
themselves, can plunge
into darkness and perform acts of unimaginable destruction and cruelty.
June 10, 2008
It's been such a long time, but
it's gone by so fast.
We are back now in Esneux, after being in Durham for
a month.
We were proud to see our son Mark graduate (in 4 years!) from
UNC (top 10
public university!). Two down, one to go. We had our first
wedding of the
next generation in our family, too. It was so nice to see
everybody, and
you all were so sweet to make us feel remembered and missed.
We miss you
all already. We are now embarking on the next phase of our
adventure.
Stephanie has started working in the lab, just as
she started
coming down with a cold caught on her travels. Not the best
re-introduction to the work force. She has been pipetting
phlegm (not
hers!), which is totally disgusting. As a mother of three,
she is hard to
gross out, but this could do it! Maybe next it's on to
Amsterdam, where
they spend days processing poop.
April 28, 2008
Our friend Patz stayed with us for a few
days last weekend.
Her mom was from Liege, and she has cousins and aunts in the
area.
She really wanted to go to Holland to see the flowers and the
Bloemencorso, a fantastic flower parade, and, against our better
judgment, we
went. Years ago we had gotten stuck in an eternal traffic jam
on the road
to the gardens as millions of Europeans converged on the gardens at
their peak.
Well, our better judgment was wrong, and we are so glad we
went! Steph
arranged a hotel right in the area, and we came up the night before
with no
problem. The floats for the parade were all lined up in town,
and we
could walk all around and gawk. Later the parade started up
and wound its
way through town. The next morning we rode bikes to the
fabulous gardens
at Keukenhof. It was a beautiful day, and words cannot
describe the
flowers. It was simply stunning. And then the ride
back through the
fields of tulips and hyacinths and pastures with cows, horses and sheep
was
just magical. It was fun riding bikes, and while I expected
we would get
passed by all the Dutch who ride every day, I did feel a
little bad when
these dumpy old ladies rang their little bells going by. But
it was
downright depressing when we were passed by a lady on a motorized
wheelchair.
We need to exercise more.
April 20, 2008
Lena and Steve came to visit with us for
a few days.
Lena is an experienced tourist, and always good to travel
with, and for
Steve it was his first trip to Europe. They planned a very
American
visit, spending a few days in London, then a few in Belgium (West
Flanders to
the southern Ardenne), then on to Germany to finish out the week,
touching the
ground in France and Luxembourg on the way. We're all about
the same kind
of trips ourselves. There is so much to see and do, and you
can rest at
home. We picked them up from the Chunnel Train in Lille,
giving us a
chance to walk around that city for a bit. We spent a day or
so visiting
the battle sites and cemeteries of Flanders from the First World
War.
There are cemeteries everywhere, and many of those include mass graves
in
addition to the rows of headstones. It was the policy of the British
Empire to
bury their dead where they fell and so there are 185,000 dead either
buried in
the area or listed among the missing. And that was just the Allied
dead!
We visited a German cemetery which held nearly
50,000 young cadets.
So very sad. You can hardly grasp the scale of the death and
destruction
that went on here. After a difficult search, we
found a bit of
excavated trenches, which included passageways that extended 10 meters
below
ground. This is incredible, since the water table is about 2
feet below
the surface. We met a "digger," a weekend enthusiast
who hunts for, and finds, relics and bodies. He let
us into his
little storage hut, and gave us samples from the bags of bottles and
bullets he
had stashed there. No bones, though bodies are found regularly and
there is
still one cemetery accepting new graves. We walked around Ypres, which
was
right in the middle of the fighting, and was pretty much leveled.
You
would never know it to look today, as they have tried to build
everything back
as it was. Every evening in Ypres, there is a memorial
service to
remember the fallen, and it can't but move you to tears.
From Ypres we went to the beautiful
medieval city of Brugge.
Continuing our quest to climb up every tall thing around, we
went up into
the bell tower, and had a beautiful view over the city. At
the other
extreme, we took a boat ride through the canals, looking up at all the
tall
buildings. In one church there is a crystal vial containing
actual blood
of Christ, brought back from the Crusades. Remarkable.
After a little rest in Esneux, and a
walk along the cliffs
of the Falcon Rocks over the loop of the Ourthe, we drove south to
Bastogne,
where, during December of 1944, General McAuliffe's airborne troops
were
surrounded during the Battle of the Bulge. Again, very moving to think
of the
heroism and tragedy that unfolded around there. Also amazing
to think
about these two wars, with so much loss, being fought in such a short
time.
Whatever else it has brought, the EU has kept Germany and
France off each
other's necks for 50 years now. We then passed through
Luxembourg and
spent the night in Trier. Trier is one of the oldest cities
in northern
Europe, although it is pretty certain that it was not there 1300 years
before
Rome, as one inscription on a medieval building asserts. It
was a major
Roman city though, and one of the old gates is still standing.
You can
imagine how impressive that must have been when most people were living
in mud
huts. After Trier we split up, with Lena and Steve going on into
Germany, and
we headed back to Esneux.
March 23, 2008
The celebrations around Easter here go
on for about 6 weeks,
and have lots of ancient sorts of elements. They kick off
with the
Carnaval parades, like in Malmedy, and then have more action in the
middle of
Lent, and then wrap up with a bang at Easter. A few weeks
ago, our
friends Chris and Liesbeth came to see us. We had a nice
visit, and went
into Tilff for their parade/festival, which was all built around Leeks!
There was a parade, with lots of costumes and dancing groups,
but most of
all, lots of confetti! I am talking tons. It was
thick in the
streets, like snow, and got into everything. We were picking
bits of
confetti out of the car, our clothes, the camera, my cell phone, and of
course,
our hair, for days. Well, OK, it took Steph days to get it
out of her
hair, not me. The theme for the celebration is leeks, and bars and
streets were
renamed with "Porai", the local dialect version of the French
"Poireau." The climax of the festivities was the arrival of the Leek
People. There were dozens, young and old, all dressed up as
leeks. They
arrived in the square, and did a big dance, and waited the arrival of
the
farmer, who was 20 feet tall at least. As he did his whirling
dance, the
leeks popped up out of the ground and they all twirled about together.
A
rich and fertile year lies ahead, no doubt!
The finale for us was the Big Fire, in Esneux. Down near the
river, a
mountain of brush and trees was built, much bigger than anything I put
up in
the yard, with an effigy hanging at the top, representing Judas.
After
dark on Easter Saturday, everyone came down to drink beer and hot wine,
and
torch it off. Now, I was expecting conflagration, as I would
have cut the
wood in the summer, and kept it under a tarp to dry to a hazardous,
tinderbox
state. Sadly, these folks were more prudent, and the wood was
green.
Plus, it started snowing, sleeting and raining as evening
came, so it was
only a Grand Feu, and not Apocolypse. But it was big, and
fun, and the
next day there were still lots of smouldering coals. All in
all, a nice
way to celebrate the coming of spring, both religious and pagan.
March 21, 2008
We had our first long range visitors
here, with the arrival
of Stephanie's sister Susan, her husband Mark, and her boys, Miles and
Ben.
They arrived at dawn in Brussels, and Steph was there to pick
them up.
Wasting not a moment, they went in for a brief tour of the
capital.
This included the Cathedral, the Music Museum (in a great Art
Nouveau
building), the Beer Museum and lunch in the Grand Place. They
came
back and slept for about 14 hours (until Steph woke them!) to
reset their
clocks. The next day they all went for some walks in the town and
countryside
of Esneux. This was probably their favorite part, as they all
love the
outdoors, and liked comparing the hills and valleys of Tennessee with
the
Ardenne. And there was the first of several stops at the
store to get a
few of the many varieties of Belgian Beer. On the weekend, we
up and
drove to Paris,where Notre Dame Cathedral, with its gargoyls and
chimera was a
big hit. They got a nice feel for the city, but even in the
off season,
line-standing takes up a lot of time.
Back in Belgium, Steph took them to
Ghent, which is a really
beautiful old city, with a university and lots of activity.
Finally, we
took a drive down into the Ardenne, through many of the little towns
that saw
the Battle of the Bulge. Our destination was Boullion, home of
Godefroid
of Boullion. He is noted as the leader of the first crusade
(1095 AD) and
inventor of the boullion cube. I am not so sure about the
last part, but
he had an excellent medieval castle, perched high on a ridge in a sharp
loop of
the river. You really got a feel for how dark and damp these
places were,
and how hard it would be to take one before cannons. The most
noted time
it fell was because the Bishop brought the relics (read "dead body
parts") of St. Lambert to threaten them with. The castle put
on a
nice show of birds of prey, including a condor, and of falcon training.
This was met by squeals of delight from the herd of little
school kids
there, and the parents enjoyed the in-joke of his naming
the snowy owls
Bill and Monica. (Snowy? Really!). Susan et al then
left to visit a
friend in Lucern, Switzerland, spend a few days in Germany, and head
home.
All in all, it went well, and we were glad to see them here.
February 22, 2008
We have taken a lot of drives or walks
around the French
part of Belgium recently, so we decided to head north instead,
and visit
Flanders. Just a few miles north of Liege, but on the other
side of the
"border," is Tongeren, which prides itself on being the
oldest
town in Belgium. In 56 BC, a local warrior king inflicted
some defeats on
the Romans, who were subduing Gaul. A Roman town was founded,
to house
the army that eventually brought them to heel, and that was the
beginning of
Tongeren. The king, Ambiorix, was never captured, and gained
the respect
of the Romans for his bravery and warcraft. He became a
symbol of Belgian
pride and unity after the country was established, and there is a noble
looking
statue of him in the square. The town has now put together a
nice walk,
marked by disks on the sidewalk with his image.
Tongeren has an excellent example of a
begijnhof. This
is a little "town within a town," enclosed by its own walls,
and home to unmarried women, often with children.
They were part of
the church, and almost like a nun's cloister, but
without taking the
vows. This arrangment grew up in the medieval time, and
flourished
throughout Flanders and Holland, allowing these widows and spinsters to
take
care of their own affairs, run businesses, and generally get along
without
having to find a suitable husband. The one here is among the
oldest,
founded in 1250, and it flourished through the 17th century.
Tongeren stayed within its early town
walls until quite
late, and much of the Roman and medieval walls can be seen
today.
These enclose a nice center, with twisty narrow streets. It
was cold, and
the moat along the wall was frozen in places, giving the ducks no place
to
paddle about. Dominating the town is the Church of Our Dear
Lady, and
there are many interesting buildings of various styles through
the years,
right up to some great Art Nouveau town homes from the early 20th
century.
We people watched for a while on the
patio of a brasserie on
the square, and enjoyed the last of the sun on the church tower.
Just at
dusk, there was a little ceremony at the war memorial on the square.
A
group of old men, proudly wearing their medals and ribbons and
presenting their
colors, gathered for a few words from the mayor, and the playing of the
national anthem. It was very moving to see these survivors,
and reflect
on the events of their youth. Like Ambiorix, they fought hard
to protect
what was theirs, and in the end survived to see a world that
was changed, but still their home.
February 15, 2008
We are now official! After
waiting for the requisite 3
weeks we went back to City Hall. In the office were the same
two ladies,
and they recognized us and knew what we needed. But, alas, it
was a
Thursday, and they don't open the drawer for foreign
registration except
on Tuesday and Wednesday, so we had to go back the next Tuesday and try
again.
This time all was good, and we are now the proud possessors
of Belgian ID
cards. Two nice bits: Several days after we closed
the process, we
got a postcard telling us to report to the office and pick up our
cards.
Plus, they are good until November, so I guess we start up
the renewal
process in a few months.
Mardi Gras, or Carnaval, is a big deal
in the Low Countries,
and there are parades and festivities from the beginning of February
'til the
beginning of March. We went to the parade in Malmedy, near
the German
border. It was getting up into the highlands, and it was
cold, especially
to stand in one spot on a stone wall for hours.
There were thousands
of watchers, and probably 1000 marchers. Everyone in the
parade was in
costume, but the choices were limited to only a few. I don't
know whether
you have to join a crew to wear a certain outfit, or a club, or it is
passed
down through generations, or if it is just a free choice, but almost
everyone
was either: a Savage (African or American), a long nose (Le
Long-Né), a long
armed clown (Le Longès-Brèsses), a Big Hat (Le Soté), a harlequin (Le
Piérot),
an ostrich feathered Austrian (La Haguète), a carrot topped cobbler, a
long
stick sweeper (Le Long Ramon, and nothing to do with lacrosse!),
a Big
Ear, or an animal. There was a scattering of other costumes,
but these
made up about 90%.
These all came through in big mobs, or
in mixed groups, all
very chaotic. Some of the characters had special activities
they did,
too. For instance, the African savages wore shifts made of
wooden
plaques, and would make a clacking noise as they hopped up and down.
The
Sweeps would brush the faces of the crown while casually
looking in the
other direction, and the harlequins would throw oranges. The
clowns would
rub people's heads, or move their hats to the next person, and the
Feather
People would use their accordian leg clampers to grab a spectator by
the ankle
and make them kneel and swear fealty. My favorites were the
Long Noses,
who would play follow the leader, either among themselves or with a
leader
plucked from the crowd. That person would then walk along the
parade
route, or run, or kiss the ladies, or get half undressed, and a string
of Long
Noses would follow along and mimic everything. They showed
real dedication,
especially when one guy took off his shoes and socks and headed off
down the
road on the 30° pavement, with a whole barefoot troop in tow.
Mixed into these groups were marching
bands, each from some
exotic part of the world. There were Russians, Turks, Arabs,
Chinese, Scots, Persians, Mongols, and English Red Coats.
And all
playing what could only be described as Community Marching Band Pop.
Add
a few parade floats à la Homecoming Game, and the effect was complete.
What this all has to do with Easter, or Lent, remains a
mystery.
When the parade was over, we skipped the
most vital part of
the festivities, which was heading into the bars and drinking all
night.
For us, we made it back to the car and turned up the heat,
and headed
home through the rolling hills of the Ardenne.
January 25, 2008
After sending off our pile of very
official documents, we
were summoned to the Consulate in Atlanta to get our visas.
This was a
low efficiency activity: 6 hours drive - 6 minutes of
transaction - and then
6 hours back. Why they have to hand them over in person
remains a
mystery. But, we did have a nice visit with Steph's brother,
so not a
complete waste. And we had lunch in the Varsity - a fitting
farewell to
the finest in US cuisine! With our newly pasted passports, we
loaded up
our suitcases with all sorts of stuff from home and headed back across
the big
water. We had curtains and a coatrack and stuff for the
kitchen.
And of course, as we are heading out through the airport, the
customs
lady beckons us over. But when she realized we were not
Belgians
returning with bags full of iPods, she just sent us on.
Once here, you have to register with the
local town, so the
bureaucrats can always know where everyone is. After a few
false starts
we found the right office and had a lovely time with two ladies who I
am pretty
sure had never done this before, at least for non-EU foreigners.
They
kept checking a big book, and conferring among themselves, then saying
they
needed this or that. But we were up to the task, and seemed
to have
everything they were after, including our ceremonial marriage license,
complete
with apostile. They sent us off, to return in three weeks, so
we will
see. A few days later, there was a knock on the door, and
it's a policeman,
here to check if we really lived here, and that our
kids weren't
with us, etc. He filled out some more paper and welcomed us
to Esneux.
The process continues!
On Saturday we tried to soak up a little
culture, and went
to a Rubens exhibition in Brussels. I don't know if
any of the
culture made it in, but it was a lovely day, and we trekked the city a
bit.
In the area we were, you could really get a feel for the
terrain of the
city, and I was surprised at the steepness of the ridge that runs
across it.
There were a few places where you had really nice prospects
out over the
lower city. We saw excellent examples of Art Nouveau
architecture,
including the entrance to the Fine Arts Museum, which goes through an
old
English insurance building, with the various offices indicated in the
lobby by
mosaics on the wall. Clearly they were not planning any
reorganizations
when they did that! A stop off in a little brasserie for a
couple of
excellent beers, another round of IKEA on the way home, and we called
it a day.
Other than that, we are just trying to settle back
in and get a
little routine going.
December 15, 2007
We have wrapped up the feasibility study
for our time in
Belgium. After a month in Esneux we are back in the US.
On the
whole, it's gone well. The only thing I am down on is the
traffic, and I
have been driving a lot. One task for the new year will be to
organize my
time better, to be more efficient in the trips. In the last
few weeks we
went up to Amsterdam a few times, and Steph is getting well aquainted
with the
city. She also came along to spend the day in Leuven, which
is a
beautiful small city in the Flemish part of the country. In
between
those, I had a nice visit to Geneva, but was only there for a few days.
While I am at work, Steph is still hiking all over the area,
and really
getting to know the local country. It really is a beautiful
area, and
although it rains a bit every day, it is usually nice and
sunny part of
each day, too. On the weekends, she hauls me out as well.
We took a
very nice, and vigorous, walk up to the top of the hills behind us.
We
went up through a really verdant forest, working our way up through the
mud,
along a rushing creek full of mossy trunks. At the top, was
the chateau
Rond Chêne, which is now a youth retreat or education center.
We went on
to a totally cool 13th century village, the center of which is
wonderfully well
preserved around an old oak. Coming back to town we ended up
sliding down
a really steep embankment, back into another deep little valley.
I ended
up flat on my back, but figured it was just good practice for this
week.
We came back to Durham on the weekend,
and were happy to see
the house was still standing. We got to visit with the locals
a little,
and are now in Denver, visitng my siblings and the nieces and nephews,
and will
go up into the mountains to ski tomorrow. Thus, the need to practice
falling.
We will stay in the US for a month, and then come back to
Esneux in
January, ready to start our Phase I trial. I sent everything
off to the
consulate for my Visa, and am full of hope that it will get done and in
hand
before we plan to return. We will see!
November 27, 2007
The weather was nice again on Saturday,
and we took a trip
up the Meuse to the cities of Huy and Namur. To get to Huy
((pronounced
like We) we drove up out of our valley, across the highlands, and down
into the
valley of the Meuse. That's the most interesting part of the
terrain
here: the heights are almost flat, and gently rolling, and
cut by deep
and steep valleys. Huy is an ancient city, first being
mentioned in the
7th century. It is dominated by a citadel, which was closed
for the
winter, and one of the best high Gothic churches in Belgium.
We strolled
about the town and the main square, and enjoyed the sunshine.
Namur is further up the river, and built
where a huge chunk
of rock rises over the river. Here the river is turned 90°,
and after
heading north out of France, goes east toward Liege. Also
here, another
river, the Sambre, joins the Meuse. All this makes for a key
strategic
spot, and a fort, or castle or citadel of some sort has been
here since
forever. Namur is a bustling place, and is now the capital of
Wallonia.
In the middle of town is a tower, with lots of chunks taken
out by
shrapnel, but I couldn't tell from when. Of course, when
there is
something high up in a town we can't resist climbing up, and we headed
up to
the citadel. It started as a rather modest castle, and over
the years was
built up more and more, and stretched further up the hill.
What was nice
was that you couldn't tell from the bottom how much there was, and new
bits
kept unfolding before us, with more to climb, and wider views.
All this
building culminated in a mass of brickwork at the top. While
it was
impressive, the key event here was a siege in 1692, when it failed to
keep the
French out of the city. At the very top, of all
things, was a
perfume shop, with lovely wooden statues, and fragrances we could not
afford.
November 25, 2007
It's been a busy week for us here. Steph
has pretty much
unpacked everything, and we are stabilized at a tolerable level of
disorder.
On Sunday we went to the market at La Batte, in Liege.
La Batte
generally means the embankmant along a river, but specifically it's one
stretch
of the Muese through the city. There has been a market there since
1549, and
it's still going strong. It's at least a mile long, and
thronged with
people. There's lots of clothes, and food of all sorts.
You could
even get a peacock for that extra special dinner. It was a
beautiful
sunny day and we strolled about for a few hours and picked up a few
things for
the house.
Sunday we went to Amsterdam for
2 nights. We
stayed in a pleasantly ratty and laughably small hotel room, and Steph
went to
Rembrandt house, and the botanical gardens, while Jim went to
work.
The highlight of the visit was a very pleasent bar just
around the
corner. Prices in restaurants are so high! We ended
up eating at some
pretty greasy spoons, 'cause we couldn't bear to pay for nicer.
The
tragedy of the falling dollar. But the weather was nice and we had
pleasant
strolls about the city.
Toward the end of the week, Steph walked
to the next
village, Poulseur. It has a good example of a kind of castle having a
single
square, fortified tower in the middle, called a donjon. These
are common
in France. Her eyewitness account:
On
Thanksgiving day I went with some co-workers to a little
town in Germany,
to visit a company. It was a nice drive, but we got lost
while the GPS
tried to get us to go straight on a road that was blocked with concrete
barricades. It was a bit like Winnie the Pooh and the sand pit, but in
the end
we made it. We had a nice lunch, but it was not turkey
dinner.
November 17, 2007
So here we are! We both got
where we needed to go, and
our luggage, too. I felt so conspicuous and odd hauling 2
huge suitcases
and a big carry-on. I usually pack light and have everything
right at
hand, and this was way out of character for me. But then I
looked around
and saw that this was just the norm-- I can't say I prefer it.
Steph got here on Wednesday, and
Thursday at 8:00 the movers
were at the door, with all of our stuff in that little green box.
They
were done in a few hours, and we've been unpacking and sorting since.
The
house has some idiosyncrasies we will have to thrash with, but that's
right in
our game.
The coolest thing is the river. It is
big and powerful, and
just rushes by. We go out every night and sit on the deck
under blankets
and watch the water go by. We call it riding the Titanic.
Today was clear and cold and we walked
around Esneux, and
went to look at the tourist info office. It was closed, but a
sign said
that you can get the goods at the butcher's shop. Sure
enough, a few
minutes later and a few euros lighter, and after a rather foggy chat
with the
butcher, we had maps and brochures galore. We walked up into
Esneux, and
around the Chateau. It is in perfect shape, and all closed,
and looks
like it is lived in. I'm going to mention to the boss that I
found
another house we should consider. We'll see. We
walked on to the
next village, Ham. It was really nice, most of the way
through the woods,
with vistas out over the river, which here takes an extreme loop.
Ham is
right in the middle of the loop, and is a hard little stone farming
village.
November 7, 2007
On Saturday everyone was asking the same
question: Well,
when are you going? We finally decided to stop waiting and
just go.
We can stay for 3 months on our passports, so we will leave
and come back
and file for a visa at Christmas. I have to be in Belgium
next week, so I
am taking off on Saturday, and Steph will follow next week.
Our stuff is
scheduled to be delivered next Thursday, and we aim to be there to take
it. So
we are going for the quick cut, with the idea that this way we only
have a few
days to frantically prepare, instead of the weeks or months
of hysteria
the process really deserves.
November 4, 2007
The party has come and gone, and we are
reassured in our
decision to call this the last one. We are unable to control our urge
to
compete with Disney. My vision of the future is cities made
of paper
mache. It was a ton of fun, and lots of people came
to see us off,
and the tradition of great costumes continued. We reprised
our roles of
Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn from 10 years ago. I am proud to
say that I
could still fit into my costume, although this time I left
out the
pillows. We took a moment to reflect on 10 great parties, and
to
recognize 3 people/couples who made it to every one: Buffy, Lew and
Sally, and
Sandra and Kent. We also sang Happy Birthday and had cake for
my Mom,
whose ??th birthday will be in a few weeks. You can follow
the link to
the left to see some pictures.
October 12, 2007
It
will be 4 weeks on Monday, and no
word. It is looking like I will have to wait until after my
next trip to
September 29, 2007
It's been two weeks, and no word, so we will take a "No news is good news" approach. We are steaming ahead with moving, and have scheduled the movers to come on October 8, and are making tentative plans to leave around November 8. We'll see!
September 24, 2007
Last week a major milestone was met: the application for a work permit for Jim was submitted to the Belgian authorities. It has been a long process to get there. I am working with Deloitte, and they certainly know what they are up to, but they are used to working with big companies that routinely send people out of the country. In that case, there is an HR department, and usually a person our group who does this all the time. For OMS, of course, it’s just me. So I am becoming much more knowledgeable than I ever thought I would.
The process is something like this: first a work permit is applied for. This requires submission of:
Before I could submit the medical form, it had to be stamped by the doctor, notarized here, then sent to the consulate for their special seal. All very proper, you know.
So that is in the hands of the bureaucracy, and we will see how they do. Once that is in hand, a visa is next.